The New Lyke Wake Club
A Family Affair by Sally Parkin
My Lyke Wake Walk Crossings’ Report: A family thing
Sally Parkin
For the purpose of this report I have decided to document my Journey to Doctorate. The times, elevation and miles are all taken from my recorded Strava. There is some variation due to different route choices taken and one detour on my Winter crossing (which added on a couple of miles) after the weather conditions made the river crossing at Wheeldale Beck far too dangerous.
Crossing 1:
16 August 2021
40.37miles 4982ft
West-East Solo Unsupported
11hrs 20
I first heard of the Lyke Wake Walk from a friend whose parents had done the crossing and it immediately peaked my interest. I love a coffin route and the history fascinated me. I began my first crossing solo and unsupported on 16 August 2021. I had bought Brian Smailes’ book, read some previous reports and stories in the Facebook group and set off just as daylight began. This crossing took me over steep hill climbs and descents. It was a route I would follow for the next 2 crossings before realising that route variations were permitted and that I would be able to contour around those three big lumps.
I decided to do a solo unsupported crossing primarily to see if I could. One of the challenges for me was carrying 5 litres of water and enough food to keep me fuelled (I love food).
At the time of my first crossing, I had about 3 years of long distance running experience, although many of these miles were in the company of others or as part of a race. The thought of spending time alone and tackling something like that without support interested me, this was new territory. It was also just over a year since the first COVID lockdown, when the walls of our house seemed to move closer and the noise levels even higher. To be honest, I think I was perhaps just looking forward to some peace and quiet. So early in the morning my husband dropped me off at Osmotherley and drove our son to the coast for a day at the beach and I set off ladened with snacks and water.
That first crossing was light and breezy, whilst the elevation at the beginning of the route made it challenging, it was manageable and the good weather conditions made for a great day out. I tracked the route on my map and flicked through the pages and pictures of the book, following each turn and stone and story with each step forwards. I ran sections of it and hiked others, arriving much later than I anticipated (the mast that never seems to get any closer!) arriving in Ravenscar as the sun was setting. I piled into the van and called my mum on the way home to tell her, to which she replied…
“The Lyke Wake Walk…? I’ve done that! I’m a Mistress of Misery!”
What I didn’t know before I started my crossing was that my family had a long standing connection with the Lyke Wake Walk. My maternal grandad had completed 4 crossings, my mum had completed 3 of those crossings with him in 969 (at the age of 14). I had no idea up until that point that she was a Mistress of Misery, it’s something that was completely omitted in the retelling of my family’s folklore. Not only on my mums side of the family, but my dad had also completed the crossing when he was in the Police force, as had my Uncle.
I was well aware of my family’s connection to other long distance events (Haworth Hobble and Fellsman, both events which I have also completed) but not to this one. I found it interesting how the Lyke Wake Walk had also pulled me in, albeit without knowledge of my family’s connection.
On uncovering my family’s history with the route, I couldn’t help but feel that the Lyke Wake Walk is my birthright, and so the seed was planted to do more crossings and the real planning began.
Crossing 2:
4 August 2022
40.52miles 4664ft
East-West Crossing
10.38hrs
Which way is easier? I’m not sure whether it was because I wasn’t carrying the 5 litres of water I had carried on my solo crossing, but East-West felt so much easier, despite the hilly climbs at the Osmotherley end. The moorland was dry underfoot and I was able to run parts of the route. It also felt familiar to me, there were less unknowns, although I was running in the opposite direction. My husband and son met me at the road crossings with water and food and cheered me on. I looked forward to these little breaks and knew that it wouldn’t be too long before I saw them again. This helped me to break up the crossing into manageable chunks, the importance of those little lifts in mood when I saw them can not be underestimated.
It is days like this that I really remember the love I have for long distance running. Near perfect conditions, the sky putting on a perfect display of deep blues and golden yellow, the purple hue and intoxicating smell of the heather. It was the thing of dreams!
My East-West crossing was just incredible and I think set in my mind a strong preference for heading West (which would later influence my decisions on future crossings). The weather was perfect and there were very few people around (just a couple of C2C walkers). I saw two snakes, one was a small grass snake and the other was an adder both moved pretty quick as soon as I went to take a picture so missed them!
Crossing 3:
11 February 2024
Winter Crossing – East to West
42.12miles 5152ft
13.23hrs
I decided to do the Winter crossing East-West with my friend Dawn. This was her first crossing and would be her first walk/run at that distance (so she really had no idea what she was letting herself in for). Luckily for me Dawn is not only resilient but she is also incredibly stubborn. A good mix when you take on challenges such as this.
The weather forecast was for heavy rain but that was due to clear around midday. We layered up with waterproofs and were dropped off by the radio mast in the pitch black and driving rain by her husband. We set off at 6.30am with our head torches on, laughing to each other at just how ridiculous it was to be embarking on such an adventure, at such a time of day/ year. The first 20 miles were wet and we spent much of that time wading through paths that were largely made up of rivers and waterfalls. When we crossed moorland, it was boggy and uneven and very hard going under foot.
We jogged where we could, which was not a lot. We spotted a headless dove at one point which was early on enough for it to be ominous.
About 3hours into the crossing I realised that I was completely wet as my waterproof jacket was leaking. I managed my temperature well – adding more layers and eating, but I knew that this crossing was over unless I had a kit change. My mum and dad were going to meet us with hot water – a quick call home and they brought ALL my clothes too.
When we reached the stepping stones at Wheeldale Beck, the river was too fast to cross and we made a detour, adding more miles on. It was frustrating and disheartening. By 2pm it was still raining and we were fast talking ourselves into an exit plan. A quick list of everything that was going right (no injuries, legs felt ok, dry forecast) and we decided to continue. My mum and dad met us with extra clothes and I was able to change into dry clothes and have a warm freeze dried meal.
The second half was completely different to the first, although the steep ascents and descents were challenging and we were now in the dark, the weather was dry, which made navigation much easier. Again we were rewarded with the most stunning sunset and star full of skies.
We sang, moaned, swore and dragged our bones the next 20 miles to the finish and John and Pizza and hot tea.
Crossing 4:
5 August 2024
Guided crossing West-East
38.44miles 4446ft
14hrs 50
There are some times in life when you get pulled to do things that you haven’t done before and are a little out of your comfort zone, but it just feels right – and it turns out to be one of the best decisions! That was the case for me on 5 August 2024 I booked on a guided crossing with Kathy and met a group of strangers in the middle of nowhere at 5am to cross for the 4th time.
This was a brilliant idea for a couple of reasons. Firstly I had company! At this time my husband was poorly and unable to get out of bed due to and undiagnosed Thyroid condition. This meant he was unable to assist with the crossings as he had done previously. Secondly I met a group that I would become friends with and keep in touch and thirdly I learned of the variation of routes that meant I was able to contour around the three big hills near the beginning of the crossing.
This crossing was an absolute joy, I met some really nice people and although was longer than my other crossings, was arguably much more fun because of those who I met in the pitch black at 5am. That time was particularly challenging for me as a family, to know that I was still able to get out there are do things was really important.
Crossing 5:
26 August
East to West
37.71miles 3967ft
12hrs 24
What a day!! On my 5th crossing I as accompanied by my friends Kate and Lucy. Lucy accompanied us 20miles to Blakey and Kate completed her first crossing with me. This crossing was a joy and made me realise just how much easer things are with friends. Although we carried all our own food and water, the weather was stunning and the company was great fun. I know some days I make photographs appear to be more fun than it actually is, but I can honestly say that this crossing was so joyful. I think it also lay the foundations in my mind that to end on a double crossing was not only a possibility, but definitely well within reach (rather naively). Special thanks to Kathy (who guided us on crossing 4) for providing a lift to the start.
Crossing 6 and 7:
24 May 2025
The Double Crossing
74.15miles 8172ft
23 hrs 35
On 24-25 May 2025 I completed crossings 6+7 of the Lyke Wake Walk, it seemed like the most appropriate way to the Dr of Dolefulness, to end on a grim double crossing. The plan was to park at Blakey Ridge and head out East to Ravenscar and back, before heading out to Osmotherley and back. My husband was going to accompany me and we had arranged for friends to meet us at both Ravenscar and Osmotherley with food/water. I thought going in May would maximise my chances of good weather.
The out and back to Ravenscar was really great, the weather was perfect (dry but not too hot). We ran, chatted and generally had a great time. There were some typical ominous Lyke Wake Signs – two dead birds, a dead sheep all within the first 5 miles, but we were in great spirits overall and buoyed further by the worlds most amazing picnic thanks to Lee Walker – sweets, pizza, melon, coke, ICE CREAM.
After 25 miles John was struggling, it was only a few weeks after a Fellsman finish for him and only a few months after he was finally stable and on medication following his diagnosis. And so back at Blakey Ridge John switched to crewing, taping my feet, changing my socks and clothes and feeding. I headed out into the night after a quick change of plan: Caroline would accompany me to Os and Ian would come back with me to Blakey Ridge. As we headed out from Blakey Ridge, I took a wrong line on the moors which led to us having to turn back uphill. It was dusk and wet under foot and so frustratingly disheartening. My mood was low and as the head torches went on I could feel that familiar creeping dread and familiar rub – of not wanting to continue but knowing that I couldn’t stop. High on the moors in the middle of the night I resolved to finish at Os, after 1.5 crossings.
I had been in this place so many times before and if there is anything I’ve learned from those times, its that who is around you and what they say in that moment has a massive impact on how you respond and what happens next.
After telling Caroline I was going to stop once I had finished this crossing, she knew exactly what to do and say – a hug on the moors and promise of a ‘reset and tea’ and we carried on to the next crossing. There I was met by John who bundled me into the van and helped me get changed out of my wet clothes. A few more spoonfuls of food and more sweet tea and I headed back out towards Osmothersley with the promise of a 15 minute sleep ringing in my ears. It’s amazing what little promises dangled in front of you like carrots keep you putting one foot in front of the other. I knew and they knew that I wouldn’t be stopping until it was over. So I quit with my moaning and carried on.
One of the remarkable skills I have is an ability to sleep anytime, anywhere for relatively short periods of time. 15 minutes in the car at Osmothersley felt like a full night, I woke up well rested and was accompanied by Ian for the last 20miles. Ian definitely got the short straw on that crossing. I shouted, swore and promised myself never to do anything like this again. I vowed a future of hobbies that involved sitting in bed smoking black cheroots and knocking back bourbon. Ian said I could do whatever I wanted so long as I kept moving forwards. At times he would distract me with moorhen chicks, other times he danced ahead whilst I followed on like a belligerent child. My feet had never hurt so much.
Life and death have been pretty consistent themes during all of my crossings, both literally and internally. I am particularly interested in the edges of yourself that doing things like this can take you to. Ive found that something quite dark and ethereal happens when I move my move for this long. It forces me to access the quiet parts of myself. Theres a rhythmic stillness in the discomfort where I learn so much although I am never sure how long I will stay in that place for, one things it for certain – it will come and it will hurt and the choices you make when you are there come really important. There are also periods of absolute fun and of people surrounding you with love, which really helps you to move along. It’s a little microcosm of life, and I guess that is what keeps pulling me back
L-R Double crossing, notes on my grandad’s map
Sally Parkin October 2025
Tell me of the purple heather, heady and thick
of golden sunrise over rugged paths
that reach ahead to horizons unseen
Tell me of the folded corners
of well thumbed maps
of fingers tracing contours
tracking each dip and steep ascent
Tell me of pages folded
knowing a little of you will also be folded in on yourself so the corners of what you thought impossible surface
an origami adventure
Tell me of the bags packed with excitement
of 3am alarms and hailing rain
cutting across that bleak landscape
and across a little bit of yourself
Tell me of the winds that drive us both towards each other and away
from ourselves
from the comfortable mundane
Tell me of the sunset that came too soon and not soon enough of wanting to stop,
but knowing that to stop would deny an ending
That familiar rub
Tell me of the howling winds across barren moorland
of sobs and clenched fists,
of bones that ache
of tears running in swollen rivers with feet on fire
Tell me of the detoured paths and hail driving pin pricks into red cheeks and I’ll tell you of the care
that carried us both
into the dark heart of that night
Tell me of the long miles awake
and I’ll tell you of the hands that hold
of the close hugs on midnight moors
of the love that was shared at each road crossing
of moorland picnics, laughter and star jumps
and pop up tuck shops where you pay with a promise
to make it
I’ll tell you of the sweet tea brought to dry lips
and spoon fed childlike dinners,
tenderness
I’ll tell you of wet clothes stripped from tired cold bodies replaced with warmth and rest
I’ll tell you of 15 minute sleeps that feel like a full night
that reset and turn you back out again
I’ll tell you of the relentless draw of the wild places
of stones that mark the way and pull you away from everything you know yet also, in your bones,
tell you that you are home
I’ll tell you what it is like to climb that last rise,
to lay a hand on that stone,
to fall into the arms you love
and to know you
yes, you
you did that thing.
Sally Parkin October 2025
Late Summer Crossing – Walk 5 – Graeme Noble
General Information
Date & Start: Sunday 4 August 2024, starting time [from the LWW finish/start stone near the beacon at Ravenscar 9.46am] – Monday 5 August 2024 [ending time 7.50am] at the LWW start/finish stone above Cod Beck Reservoir.
Walking time: 18.58.44
Actual crossing time 22hrs 20mins 6sec
Total Walking Distance: 44.92 miles
Dirger: Graeme Noble (no walking companion but refurbished assistance at times).
I had decided that after the excitement and experience of the winter crossing and not getting my feet wet (it had been quite dry underfoot then) to take on Bill Cowley’s suggestion of walking the northern route of the LWW he describes in the Lyke Wake Walk, pages 34 & 35, fifth edition 1971 (walking in a westerly to easterly direction). Part of my personality dislikes too much repetition, so, a change from previous crossings was called for.
A straightforward start on a warm morning with a drop off from my wife, Kate. This section was not going to be the classic route and I began to head off to Cook House/Spring Hill and the Flask Inn (closed c10.30am!).
At this point my watch was clocking up c18 minutes for a mile and I was quite pleased with the progress. However, slightly after Ballira Cottage through to Ling Hill Plantation the fun started as the path disappeared in 6ft high bracken which seemed to continue into infinity. Oddly, following my map and compass I navigated bracken attempting to hold me back from progressing forwards with pretty tough fronds wrapping themselves around my feet and body, but, somewhat surprised, I arrived at a newly replaced gate to the plantation. This took c45 minutes to cover a small area and I was knackered! Taking stock in the plantation I had a breather and a cuppa. Billa Howe Dale Slack is a good reason to follow the classic route. On the Ordnance Survey map OL27 the route is shown clearly as a defined footpath. Staggering through the morass of a stream and bog that follows the route of the path (a sheep track now due to underuse?) I wondered about Mr Cowley’s suggestion of this as an alternative approach. Another 45 minutes passed and I was beginning to think that I’d be needing to have another try walking across the LWW as I would probably not complete the walk in the 24hr time frame. This section is a watery trek and my right leg and below were given a wash. There is nothing like having a foot watered in the swill of a bog. I may be complaining about the underfoot conditions but the magnificence of the scenery, moving from surrounding hills into woodland with converging tracks is second to none. So, I took up the challenge and was pleasantly surprised at the juncture of footpaths leading into Newton House Plantation, roughly at John Bond’s Sheep House.
The sheep weren’t in and there was no sign of him either. But, apart from there being a lot of fallen trees, progression was easier and I eventually came onto the Whinstone Ridge that Mr Cowley describes as part of the alternative northern walk. A great walk from here to Beck Hole and ultimately the conclusion above Cod Beck Reserve. Marvellous views and apart from the danger of crossing the A169, meeting a steam train, an LNER P3, locomotive 2932, standing on the bridge and observing it as the whole train passed underneath, at Beck Hole, was a great experience.
This was followed up by meeting up with Kate and a pint and a slice of their beer cake costing a miserly £12.50 showed that I had lost the plot in the singular experience of mortgaging my resting feet to those at Birch Hall Inn. (No credit card payments that day they were only accepting cash). It may be a 16th century inn and the interior has interest but the prices are 23rd century! Kate’s demeanour suggested the cost was too much to pay for the experience and opted out citing shock and general feelings of seeing beyond the hole in the wall which had the following notice stuck to it, only cash today.’ Onwards, with a change of sock on the right foot and replenishment of liquids, Kate sped off in her chariot and I had the unique experience of joining the old railway line and long lost platform below the pub at Beck Hole which serviced travellers and the movement of iron ore. Shortly after crossing the double span railway bridge I began the long gradual incline up to the Duckponds, mentioned again by Mr Cowley (he describes this route from west to east) but I chose not to swim or dabble my toes as I could see a window allowing me to claw back time regarding the 24hr challenge. Egton High Moor gives great views across to Bumble Wood and I wondered if anyone had been out painting the Blue Man? Was Matissa out there with her brush? From there I climbed up Wain Hill and stopped for a bite to eat, catch my breath and then off. What a beautiful surprise the entry into High Gill Beck at the northern point of Wintergill Plantation has to offer.
An orange carpet of pine needles stretched under my feet for the entirety of this section under a canopy of trees that blocked out 90% of light. Stunningly shocking to the senses and I was nearly seduced to stop and take root myself. This momentary pause to take in the varying colours of ferns (glassy, shiny green) against the orange carpet and the lack of light suggested that bewitching could easily take place in that place. And, then light came from the same grove as I proceeded through to Nab End. This is a lush area of farmland in a faraway place. Glaisdale became a spiritual paradise of greenery,
great views and calmness that is difficult to achieve in the present day world. Silence enveloped me further as I walked up Caper Hill walking towards the Cut Road Path and over Glaisdale High Moor. (Look back if you ever walk this way, Whitby and the sea beckon). I had found my paradise to equal that of Wainwright’s Lakes description on his first sight of them from Orrest Head. Apart from Beck Hole I had met no one all day and I am glad that I didn’t have to share the moments from crossing the moor and the richness of the greenery over Yew Grain Scar, hiding the workings of man’s past, part of the head wall to Great Fryup Dale.
I read later that, ‘the top part of the Scar is made up of ferruginous (iron bearing) sandstone, with fossiliferous and alum shale below.’ So, based on my observations of hummocks littering the landscape I presume that the lushness of the greenery now hides man’s past mining of the land here. No water tumbled over the cliffs but the breathtaking ethereal green colour palette has left a legacy in my memory as much as the earlier orange pine floor that I walked through. The Cut Road (Path) reminded me of previous Coast to Coast adventures and passing by the Trough House (a game keeper’s house) I called my partner suggesting a time we could meet at the Lion’s Inn in about an hour and a half’s time.
There is one thing about the Lion’s Inn night lights – Blackpool Illuminations have reached the moors. As an understatement it is well lit up. So, passing Fat Betty (which has had a new coat of paint) I continued to my next resting place, the inn. No Jam Roly Poly as the kitchen was closed! But, there was a pot of Earl Grey tea and a pint of Theakston’s Old P. Kate joined me here for a thirty minute break and to restock me with a good bacon butty, a fresh flask of peppermint tea and a bottle of Lucozade. Energy boosts for the nighttime trek. On emerging from the Inn it was belting it down (c10.30pm) and the waterproofs came out. I did think of a warm bed and realised that an assisted walk, although having its upside, also had temptations placed there by the devil himself and wished Kate a good night. She drove off in heavy rain and I sighed about the weather but knew I was going to complete the walk on time. I love (literally) walking from the Lion Inn along the old railway to Bloworth Crossing, Round Hill and to the seat above Hasty Bank. The sense of adventure, excitement and joy at walking in the dark alone and alongside stationary frogs held frozen in the head torches beam creates a sense of rapture that makes the LWW evoke memories of the past, present and future. My body alters into a canopy of shared landscape shadows and I passed into another existence until daybreak (c4.20am). It’s quite odd to note that morning light seems to rise so quickly. By c5am there was radiant sunlight which accompanied me for the rest of the walk. At that moment I become human again. But, this shared reality had a companion that night, that of extremely strong winds, which, gusted with bravo until I arrived at the Greenhow Plantation where I took a break. So, I took the decision of staying low and not going onto the cliffs up to the Wain Stones from Hasty Bank but remained low on rather a muddy track, ‘the old jet miner’s track,’ (Cowley, 1971, pg. 24) through to Green Bank and then (and this seems to occur at daybreak) the gusts of wind had significantly reduced and I began the climb up to the top of Carlton Moor
(what views and only dying breaths of wind) and eventually the Bronze Age Cairn down to what has become my pilgrimage stop above Hollin Hill where there is a decent seat, peace and quiet and the final stretch through Clain Wood (no owl hoots at this stage of the day). At the farm below Hollins Hill I came across Scottish Highland Cattle, calves with mums and dad, straddling the path as I walked in between them. Their horns looked dangerous but the cattle were quite impervious to human presence, enjoying the grass and being an extended family. Who is this human I heard mooed.
The memorial to Bill Cowley awaited me close to the exit on the road (someone has been out with a strimmer) easier to see than before. And, literally the job was a done deal and another crossing completed. A slow walk down to Osmotherley bus stop followed where I awaited Kate picking me up. A great walk with some time to spare.
Well. ther’ your go!
I’m walking the LWW again next Monday 19, so a further report to follow then.
A New Decade: Natalie Vallone
Yesterday I completed my first crossing! West – East, solo & unsupported.
When I heard about this walk a month ago, I knew it was the perfect challenge to mark entering my thirties.
On Monday I drove to Ravenscar and spent the rest of the day on public transport to the start. It was only then I think I really realised how tough this was going to be.
I left Osmotherly youth hostel at 04:05, walking through cloud pretty much the whole way until The Lion, which was maybe a good thing not being able to see the hills or stretching moors ahead!
As I left the road and entered the bog, the sun came out which made for a glorious afternoon (despite a moment of concern when I got stuck in said bog!). The river at Wheedale was thankfully passable and I made it to Lilla Cross before the head torch had to come out again.
The last stretch was tough, with the knees and brain both wanting to call it a day, but a couple of encouraging messages from friends saw me to the end! The final struggle back to my car at Raven Hall hotel finally came to an end at 21:00.
Not sure if I will ever do another crossing (so impressed by those of you that have!!), but very glad to have completed it and to be entering my thirties officially a witch!