The New Lyke Wake Club
The Great Divide: Richard Pearson
THE DAY I CROSSED THE GREAT DIVIDE OR MY LYKE WAKE WALK
Starting Time – 0630 from the LWW Stone, Cod Beck Reservoir.
Finish Time – 2123 at the LWW Stone near the Beacon Reservoir.
Total Time Taken (including Rest Stops x 4) – 14 Hours 53 minutes.
I HAVE CROSSED!!!
On Saturday August 24th 2024, with the support of Yorkie Talkies Outdoors (YTO), I can (finally) lay claim to having crossed the great divide from Osmotherley, across the North Yorkshire Moors to Ravenscar!! A journey of 40 miles or so, filled with most emotions a human being can endure. From despair and wretchedness to elation and all feelings in between!
We assembled as a group at 0600 at Cod Beck Reservoir to meet our guides and to be split into sections based on perceived abilities. For some unexplained reason, I was chosen to be in the first party to leave (as they were purported to be the “quickest”). GULP!!
I was in a group of 13 including 3 YTO Guides who, as I cannot remember all their names, shall be henceforth be collectively known as the Nameless Ghouls and we set off from the starting stone at 0630 at a cracking pace! The weather was excellent, just right for the pace we were setting and it wasn’t long until we were passing the Bill Cowley Memorial Stone.
The weather was superb for the challenge, although we did get a brief rainstorm whilst travelling along the Old Railway Line towards the Lion Inn, which was our second Checkpoint where there were refreshments aplenty!! Alas, we had lost one Nameless Ghoul due to injury and upon our departure from the Lion Inn it wasn’t long until we lost another unfortunate soul due to another injury! This challenge can be cruel!
We crossed the “boggy section” with very little trouble. The area was VERY dry, which, as my guides were telling us was a good indicator of how dry things were due to the changing climate. The whole moor had signs warning of fire risks telling people to be careful with anything combustible. It certainly was a bit of an eye opener as, having previously read about the perils of this section, was expecting to be immersed in freezing cold bog water!!! (Maybe next time eh?)
At Lilla Cross we stopped for a few minutes to reflect and to take stock. Not just of the journey we were undertaking, but a chance to express what we were all grateful for (survival so far for me!!). Seriously though, it was a moving moment and it made one grateful for each moment one has before THE final crossing.
The miles were flying by by now. Apart from my legs refusing (almost) to propel my body and soul up any ascents (and let’s face it, the majority of the ascents are short, sharp and steep!!). My fellow crossers had to take a breather in order for me to catch up (you are all welcome!!). The worst fall I took was ascending Jugger Howe Ravine when I virtually collapsed at the side of the path but with great help and encouragement from the YTO guides and my fellow Nameless Ghouls I managed to get back on my feet and carry on to the finish stone! I HAD MADE IT!!
I must mention that the organisation and support provided by Yorkie Talkies Outdoors was absolutely phenomenal, from Emma (the boss), the guides and the volunteers! All, along with my fellow Nameless Ghouls, contributed to make the crossing as comfortable as a 40 mile hike over North Yorkshire can be!!
So, that is a very brief account of my crossing on the 24th August 2024. I seem to be unable to remember lots of the journey, probably because I was trying to a) keep up with the group and b) attempting to stay on my feet for more than ten steps!! Despite everything, I enjoyed the challenge and am happy that I have Crossed!! Would I attempt the crossing again? Maybe, possibly but don’t tell my legs or my left big toe!!
Late Summer Crossing – Walk 6 – Graeme Noble
General Information:
Date & Start: Monday 19 August 2024, starting time [from the LWW finish/start stone near the beacon at Ravenscar 9.31am] – Tuesday 20 August 2024 [ending time 7.39] at the LWW start/finish stone above Cod Beck Reservoir.
Walking time: 18.10.40
Actual crossing time 21hrs 8mins 41secs.
Total Walking Distance: 44.3 miles
Dirger: Graeme Noble (a solo walk without assistance).
I decided to re-visit my previous walk with a few amendments concerning the route. No more water boarding the lower limbs and stomach. Actually, I hate my feet getting wet. (Bizarrely, that’s another story for later in this 6th chapter of woe and commiseration. Anyway, spending 2hrs crossing c2 miles, during walk 5, wasn’t going to be a repeat tramp for me!).
So, the first part of the walk followed the classic route to Lilla Cross. I have to say that the weather suggested what the rest of the day was going to offer, gusting wind and quite a chill at times. Yet, it was easy going, just under 3 miles per hour and a breeze through Jugger Howe, still lush and luxuriant green.
One new thing to observe are the amount of fire warnings out on the moors and the do’s and don’ts of having a barbecue – well, the notification says don’t (unless it’s top end steak with a glass of red wine with a pepper sauce and the trimmings). That’s what I’d eaten the previous lunchtime (on the Sunday with family) and for some reason the thought of the smell of that plated food, with the accentuation of barbecues sitting in a picturesque frame in the front of my eyes while I’m writing here, compelled my thoughts away from the report. Remember, follow the countryside code and take your litter away with you and don’t burn the place down, follow guidance and make your way following the route you have chosen.
Lilla’s Cross provided a happy few moments of reminiscence concerning the beauty of the moors and a sort of bitter sweet sadness of not venturing into Ellerbeck, but I’d made a decision on the new route (walk 5) previously and wanted to connect with the northern path that I’d followed last time. So, with the cries of former warriors resounding in the slightly stronger wind I headed north, bypassing the bog before Ling Hill Plantation, Biller Howe, Dale Slack and the entirety of Newton House Plantation, found in Bill Cowley’s suggestion of walking the northern route of the LWW he describes in the Lyke Wake Walk, pages 34 & 35, fifth edition 1971 (walking in a westerly to easterly direction) on the route of Foster Howes Rigg.
There is a damaged Ann’s Cross still residing up there on a hillside and a trig point not so far away naturally joins the Whinstone Ridge path. A great ridge walk with the A169 ever present to the west and oddly, the sound seemed to be more greatly exaggerated up there of steam train hoots being reflected upward to me as I walked alone. No people, just lots of white dust clinging to my boots. (Not that type of dust, although I had been on a stretch…of ground).
Here I had my lunch and mused in silence for 15 minutes or so. I’d been looking around for the York Cross on the Whinstone Ridge and if I’m honest was so engrossed in the search that when a man’s voice said good afternoon, I had a heart attack and needed to be resuscitated. With the help of belief that John Bond had come to meet me I recovered, but it was with alacrity that he explained his mission in life was only to pass by the souls of those doing the Duke of Edinburgh’s award and that he was not able to find time to assist me in my search for the Cross of York. Off he went. I was eventually to pass him again where the Whinstone Ridge crosses through the A169 westward and, he explained he was waiting for another team of 6 youths.
On to Beck Hole. No trains passing by under the bridge and no beer from Birch Hall Inn. The sign remained in its official place stating, ‘only cash today’. I wasn’t cashless, only mindful of my previous visit there). I joined the old railway line where I stopped at a seat dedicated to Mrs. Stannard? Removing my boots alternately, I extricated a thin piece of grass attempting to grow into my left ankle and had some fun removing it, eventually, pulling the skin away and it popped out. The right heel was in poorer shape and by the end of the walk I had a two-inch blister on it which was patched over with gauze. Strangely, this never burst throughout the walk. A memorial and test to my foot’s sturdiness of character, and its ability to make the most of pain. Or, the insane determination to complete the crossing at any cost, as Kate (my partner) might express.
A new pair of socks came out and gingerly putting the right sock over the ankle with not too much of a grimace, I walked up the track bed before cutting off to the footpath which crosses Musk Esk Cottage, crossing the Old Roman Road (course of which is now found in a wood) marching uphill to In Moor. Not in A Mire! Here, I walked along the Roman Road (another according to Ordnance Survey – mind the Roman’s got around quite a bit) and eventually joined the track crossing Egton High Moor. A rather grand route, even with more restricted views due to low cloud.
No view of Whitby and the surrounding coastline, unlike the previous walk, and the silhouettes of landscape only present from memory and the far distance diminished in grandeur. I had a sadness here due to this area being one I frequented often with Hella, a good friend, for many years over many summer holidays, and remembered her associated conversation about the sea and the heather. A view can only bring somewhat the person back and a reality came upon me that on this day of walking that my friend was actually dead and I had let, somewhat, go of the sadness of her passing at that moment in time and the reality was that she was still resident with me but in a happier way, than had been the case for some years. So, the experience of walking the Lyke Way Walk may well have been some type of grieving experience for me concerning times past and the associated memories with the lived experience.
Below Wain Hill where the road runs north at the juncture of road and track I headed southward (different to walk 5) and cut through the path at Wintergill (somewhat a ruin to the left of the path, south of Wintergill plantation) and eventually arrived at Mountain Ash Farm, rejoining the route I had taken from the previous walk.
Glaisdale is truly a beautiful place as is the walk by the head of it leading up to Caper Hill. Tiring, but once upon the top of Glaisdale Moor and the Cut Road Path things became easier even with the wind increasing in strength. By the time I’d arrived at the George Gap Causeway Path, passing Trough House, I wondered if it would be easier to fly to the Lion Inn as in some ways, the weather was attempting me to take up flight, or alternatively to dig up a bit of coal from the old disused quarries, to keep warm. Watching the occasional bird flying past I’m not sure if that would have helped either to get there as even they had problems remaining aloft and flying in a straight line. Buffeting had arrived early on the plate. Tea was still a few miles away.
From trod to trod the wind became stronger and the threat of rain coming up from Rosedale stayed away with occasional very short showers. But, at Fat Betty the rain came down in a torrent and I was lucky enough to be wearing my waterproof jacket as a wind cheater, however, waterproof leggings were not given time to be pulled out of the rucksack and the rain washed my shorts and ran into my boots. This was not good for my right heel, which, in conversation with me said ‘enough’. The force and ice-like power of the rain hitting my face made it feel like winter rather than a summer’s evening. The wind by now was blowing so strongly that by the time I arrived at the Lion Inn I found that my shorts had dried out. Amazing, that at 65 years old, I had become a rotary clothes dryer!
A saving grace was that the Lion Inn kitchen was still open at 8.10pm, and I was informed that I had 20 minutes to order tea. Jam Roly Poly, a pot of Earl Grey (with some extra water) and a pint of Theakston’s Old P. I remained until 9.05pm, ah! the glamour of walking in a gale, but knowing I was on schedule to complete the walk. No rain but the gusts of the devil’s breath pursued me by until I claimed eventual shelter under trees and the embankment of the Cleveland hills along stretches of the Jet Miner’s Path at Hasty Bank. There were a few frogs to be seen, but surprisingly, the number of rabbits huddling on the side of the path towards Bloworth Junction created a rather saddening feeling of how nasty the storm had become.
I’d walked through Storm Desmond when walking the Cumbria Coastal Footpath (as it used to be called) between Maryport and Silloth and remembered arriving at the hotel at around 6pm, soaked through, then being asked, ‘do you want an evening meal,’ and, somewhat replying, ‘not tonight,’ clambering upstairs to the room and putting on quite a few room heaters, leaving the soaked clothes in the bathroom, jumping in to bed frozen and waking up the following morning at 8am with a room heated up to about 30 degrees and a pile of sand on the bathroom floor, noticing that my clothes had changed to a beautiful golden glow. I digress.
The weather became worse and I wondered if I would be Bloworth away, occasionally being blown to the right of the track and then I would find my way back to the left. There was quite a stretch of such devilish chicanery. A comedian I hear you say. A knackered man with a problem right heel, I might reply. I was so tired that I missed Round Hill. But, waking up to the shock of missing a venue I knuckled down to concentrate on dropping down from Carr Ridge to Hasty Bank. The footpath with what appear to be small cobblestones and the occasional big outstanding stones built into the path I considered to be a trifle daunting and my right foot was in the process of making painful conversation. I found a pause in the wind after a slight descent after the gate and seat near the disused tips and re-felted the heal with a pain reliever spray and extra padding. This lasted until before Lord’s Cafe where I conversed with a frog, hallucinated about the meaning of life, wondered what the hell I was doing out at 3am in the morning with a head torch on and the recognition that there was only half a bacon butty left and that had to last out until the seat at Hollin Hill. The frog had taken up residence under heather and we both experienced ‘Vulcan’ contact. Quite pleasant!
Communication…
‘Lie down on this heather
Let the time pass away’
Said the frog, ‘let those trees sway
And you behold your footsteps will wither…’
Amazing what happens when you ‘kiss that frog’, (Peter Gabriel). I jump from trod to trod and move on too fast. I’m not sure what happened to the frog, but it moved. Did it ever exist? Again, with some gloominess I decided to take the Jet Miner’s Track (Cowley, 1971, pg. 24). Unlike the previous walk the wind didn’t abate and had actually increased in power. So, by the time I had arrived onto the top of Carlton Moor things had moved on a bit and I put the waterproof jacket back on with a hope and a prayer at the trig point, arriving at the top I was greeted by a ferocious wind. It’s odd getting hit with a gust and getting blown to the right off the top of the cliff. What a way to die. The newspapers, X, Facebook etc., and any trivial commentary would have a great time twisting the story concerning the sanity of someone being out at that time of night in that type of weather! They wouldn’t ask me, via séance, what I had been thinking. Nor would I expect them to in this day of, I am, Me, culture.
I made my way steadily through to my early breakfast last stop at my favourite public seat, relishing the fact that daybreak had arrived at 5.30am and I could see without the use of a torch. An hour later than I had experienced two weeks previously. So, at Hollin Hill the remnants of the bacon butty were noshed and my flask of peppermint tea (refilled at the Lion Inn) was emptied. One hill left to climb up and then the Lyke Wake Stone. Clain Wood called after a half hour’s break and I was on my way. (again, similar to walk 5, no owl serenade as on previous walks). The gale had begun to blow itself out, or, perhaps I had absorbed it. Energy wise I now wonder if the temerity of the weather had absorbed part of me! But I got to the end with roughly two hours to spare.
The Top Shop at Osmotherley does a good cup of coffee. An hour later Kate came to pick me up, and made some rather tasty egg and bacon sandwiches from her portable deli in the car. I rejoiced that I had returned to humanity, yet humbled by the rumblings of the god’s bowels.
23rd-24th August 2024. HMP Holme House Crossing. Adam Norman.
A group of us HMP Holme house and my father completed the walk in 17.5 hours.
Adam Norman
Keith Norman
( Other Completers to be Added ).
My father and I completed the walk in memory of my Auntie Ann and Auntie Sue who both passed away on the same hospice from Cancer. Which we are hoping to raise £1000 for Dove house Hospice in Hull.
The walk was something my father had wanted to do since he was 17 (he’s now 68). I am so proud of him and so happy we made the crossing together.
I don’t think you can explain how difficult it is, we started at 9pm, so walking through the night was hard work. But at least you couldn’t see the hills you had to climb in the first 8 miles or so.
Once the sun came up at Blakey ridge, just after breakfast, spirits were up and we could start the day.
The paths are hard, it’s really difficult to look up at any point, as if you do you tend to trip over a rock, like my dad did ! So felt that I looked at the ground most of the time.
I found the walk relentless, I never want to see heather again!
The up hill I liked the best as coming down hill was almost unbearable on my knees, but watching my dad walking in front off me, made me grit my teeth and crack on.
The miles and miles are never ending, and then you see the sea and the radio mast (that never gets closer!)
The last down hill before you start the climb to the end was awful. My dad was weak and watching him decent was worrying, but like the rest of the walk he took it in his stride and got on with the job in hand.
Once up the other side, the sun was shining, we had our last pit stop, I removed boots and put what felt like most comfortable trainers on in the world and we set off for the end.
The 10 of us walked as a group, we laughed, cried and whimpered. I was very proud that all 10 of us completed it.
Thank you to you all (and our 2 crew vehicles) for the best and worst 17.5 hours of my life.
This is one walk I will never forget and I’m so happy I got to do it with my dad.
Pictures of a very long day……………….
16th/17th August 2024. Family Crossing. Graham North.
Starting Time – 16.30 from the LWW Stone Cod Beck Reservoir
Finish Time – 15.28 at the LWW Stone near the Beacon Ravenscar
Walking Time – 18 hours 32 minutes and 27 seconds
Total Time – 22 hours 58 minutes
Distance 41.67 miles
Participants
Guide – Graham North
Claire Taylor
Denise Greig
Leigh Greig
Matty Greig (unfortunately did not complete)
Harry Greig
Joel Greig
The Lyke Wake Walk has always had a special place in our family with Dad doing it when he was a PTI in the army and many times since. He introduced two generations of the family to it and this crossing would introduce a third.
Denise and Claire had a burning desire to carry on the family tradition to complete the LWW and had decided this was the year to do it. As I’d completed more than a few crossings already, know the moors well from growing up close by and have spent many hours running in the area, I volunteered to guide them across. Once we had decided to do it our small party soon grew to seven. The group consisted of my partner Claire, my big sister Denise, who not too long had a full knee replacement, two of my nephews Leigh/Matty and two of my great nephews Harry/Joel both only 14.
So, with logistics and back up sorted we set off at 16.30pm on a warm Friday evening in August and headed up and over Scarth Wood Moor, down through Clain Wood and into Scugdale. Things were going well for most of us, as they should on fresh feet and legs, so we made steady progress as we traversed the Cleveland Hills. However, that was to change very quickly. Not long before our first support point at Clay Bank Matty started to suffer with foot pain and being less than ten miles in that was not a good sign. We pushed on to the support point for a welcome break, especially for Matty where he promptly changed his boots.
After some pot noodles (food of champions, not really, they are pretty bad but do the job) we set off again, headtorches lighting the way we climbed Urra Moor and headed towards Bloworth Crossing.
From here we kept up a good pace along the old railway line and made a decent progress arriving at our next support point at White Cross an hour ahead of our schedule. Unfortunately, the increased pace had took a further toll on Matty’s feet and he decided enough was enough at this point. He wasn’t too disheartened though, as he admitted he had never walked anything over five miles, so doing just over 20 miles was a PB for him. Maybe next time he might do some training before embarking on a 40 + plus mile walk across the moors but we shall see.
So, after some lovely homemade cakes and teas/coffee the six of us set off towards Shunner Howe. This section was much slower as expected traversing the bogs and reed beds in the dark. No issues though and we eventually popped out on the Hamer Road to meet our support, who like a tag team had changed over since the last stop. There were some weary faces about by this point and we all had wet feet, so as well as food it was a change of socks and for some shoes too. Whilst stopped the sun rose which gave a boost and after some lovely homemade sandwiches we were off again.
The section towards Wheeldale Moor was a lot drier than expected, but once over the initial soft peat the rocky section over to the Roman Road slowed the group down and took its toll on the feet. Nevertheless, we arrived at Roman Road for a quick cuppa and then set off again down over the stepping stones and up Howl Moor to Simon Howe. A quick rest to take in the view and then down to Ellerbeck to meet our support.
It was very tempting for everyone to stay far too long here
so we had a quick bite to eat, discarded some layers and set off again up the
gentle climb to Lilla Cross (my favourite place on the moors). Shortly after
leaving Ellerbeck Bridge the two young lads decided, they’d had enough of our
leisurely pace and sped off up towards Lilla Howe. That was the last we saw of
them, apart from dots in the distance, until the finish. I don’t know exactly
what time they finished so they’ll just have to settle for our finish time. This
section for the rest of us was uneventful. A death march for most of the group
with various aches and pains making each step more difficult. At Jugger Howe Leigh
decided his feet were so painful, he was going to get this over with so pushed
on over the top, across the Scarborough Road and stomped up the final incline
to the finish. This left three of us making slow but steady progress towards
the Scarborough Road.
No stopping here it was straight over the busy road and the short climb back onto the moor. Then just a case of one in front of the other as we soon climbed and reached the finish. Where we were met by other family members and the boys who had finished earlier. Everyone was then presented with a well-earned LWW badge and received the usual flowers (another family tradition) well it as a wake after all
So that was it all over. Another crossing for me and my first leading a group. Second crossing for Leigh and first crossings for Claire, Denise, Harry, and Joel, who were now the 3rd generation of the family to complete the Lyke Wake Walk.
We are now thinking of making this an annual event and some of us are considering trying a double crossing. We shall see…………..
No Thanks to the Romans…
Crossing report: Ravenscar to Osmotherley
Date: 19 July 2024
Participants: Terence Fleming and Nick Ryan
Earlier this year, five of us agreed to do the Lyke Wake Walk in July. Then Michelle had a fall and injured her shoulder, so had to drop out. Then the doctor told Dave that he should not do it. Then Dave’s brother decided that if Dave wasn’t doing it, nor would he. Nick thought he had got away with it, but sadly Terence (aged 67) told him he was still keen so Nick (56) felt morally obliged to accompany him. This was Terence’s second crossing (his first was in 1974) and Nick’s first.
As we were staying in Great Broughton, two miles away from Hasty Bank, we decided to do East to West. We know the paths from Hasty Bank to Osmotherley well, so thought that if either of us decided 30 miles was enough, the other could continue to the end alone. So, escape route planned, we left home at 3.30 in the morning on Friday 9th July.
Michelle had very kindly agreed to support our efforts, driving us to Ravenscar and meeting us at all of the check points listed in the Lyke Wake Walk guide book. This meant we did not have to lug heavy rucksacks with us – just a bottle of water, emergency clothes and food, a map, and my paper with our ETAs at each checkpoint. I calculated these by taking the times given in the guide book and multiplying by one and a half. This gave us a surprisingly accurate forecast.
We got to Ravenscar at 4.30, ignored the road closed sign on the road up to the mast, and were soon setting off. First stage from Ravenscar to Jugger Howe passed without incident and we continued the next stretch towards Eller Beck. By this stage the sun was up, and we passed through a beautiful green valley crossing a beck by a bridge. It seemed idyllic. We continued to Lilla Cross, then came in view of the Fylingdales RAF centre, with all its warning signs. We followed a nice road downward before realising that we were going in the wrong direction so had to walk through the heather to a sort of path that seemed to follow the signs that warned us about radiation.
We soon arrived at Eller Beck, where we had a bit of a rest, drank a coffee and wolfed down a few snacks. Then off we went for the next stretch. After crossing the North York Moors railway, we walked up towards Simon Howe where we nodded our respects. Then down into Wheeldale. There was no obvious path, so we climbed through the bracken, only tripping a few times. Up the hill, expecting to cross a nice well-constructed Roman Road, but we couldn’t find it. Clearly the Romans didn’t believe in cones. We couldn’t find the correct route to Wheeldale Road, actually joining it 400 metres north of where we should have.
From Wheeldale road, we turned right onto what looked like a very easy road. Sadly it turned out that the easy road was going down-hill, we were on the scrub path. This part of the crossing did drag a bit. Once we finally passed the final corner of Wheeldale plantation, it seemed we were making some progress.
Michelle was there to greet us at Hamer with sandwiches. Then off to the boggy bit. It wasn’t too bad (and we had done a recce two days previously). We did pass a pair of trainers, and wondered what had happened to the owner, but we couldn’t see any bodies struggling in the mud. After less than two hours, the bog was done, and we were an hour ahead of schedule. So we decided to nip into the Lion Inn for a celebratory pint. On leaving the Lion Inn, we had lost at least half of our one hour advantage, but felt very relaxed.
We walked along the smooth railway for what seemed like a long time (nearly a quarter of the whole crossing), and crossed down towards Hasty Bank where we were met by other members of our family who had come to meet us, which was lovely. For some reason after one look at us and listening to our conversation they declined the offer to join us on the next stretch to the Lordstones.
At this point we began to flag. Walking up Hasty bank to the path through the Broughton Bank plantation seemed particularly gruelling – knees, ankles and everything else aching. Why the hell had we signed up for this.
We soon reached Lord Stones where Michelle gave us our torches. Up the steep hill to the trig point. Then a long, long, long, long gradual decline into Scugdale. By now it was dark – no moon, no stars, so switched on the torches. We crossed the beck, almost took a wrong turn, but somehow found the path across the field into the very dark forest. With the end almost in sight, (well it would have been but for the dark) we felt a second wind.
Eventually we emerged onto the road into Osmotherley. We couldn’t see anything apart from what was in the beam of our torches. Suddenly two ladies appeared out of the dark (our wives) and accompanied us to the finish. We finished at 11.20, 10 minutes ahead of our plan.
We couldn’t have had better conditions. No wind, no rain, or winter storms, daylight for 18 hours. So probably not the most challenging crossing – but we did it! Total time (including breaks): 18 hours 50 minutes.
Who Needs Sleep Anyway: Cathy Staniforth
I completed the Lyke Wake Walk starting yesterday in just under 24hrs. After driving nearly 7 hours from Tywyn, Wales with no sleep!
I was going to set off at 0200 but on reaching the start marker I realised my ear phones weren’t working so I sorted that out before starting proper at 0213 finishing at 0206 (I started Outdoor Active at 0204 but paused it when I realised the issue and went back to the car that dropped me off) My watch I started at the correct time of 0214 but it died so I can’t use the stats from that.
My partner dropped me off then I completed it alone unsupported so I carried everything!
Even at 0200 it was hot, I wore just a t-shirt the whole walk.
My favourite part was Lordstones to Claybank. It was just beautiful. I had the moon on one side and the sun on the other.
The ground was stony and painful. So the boggy section was welcomed!! (The truly awful boggy section I avoided thanks to Rory’s directions). But it was spongey and a delight. It also brought some interest as it was getting quite tough just walking.
There was also a meadow type section which was just bliss on my feet.
I knew I’d be slower than when I did it in 2021 with a group (the then Yarm walkers with Rory Stephen) at about 17 hours as I’m not as fit and I was solo but I’d forgotten just how tough it was.
There were lots of grouse. Everywhere!! I’ve has a run in with a grouse before where it attacked me. No one believes me but I had a witness. So I was a bit on edge when they kept appearing suddenly in large groups!!
Darkness meant it was cooler but navigating even with Outdoor Active (I had back up paper maps) was tricky as the paths weren’t clear and the down section at the end was slightly terrifying (I just went down on my bum!)
I was so glad to reach the stone at the end. It did take me a long time but the sense of satisfaction is amazing!! I didn’t enjoy the 1.5 + miles back to my car! However it was a nice smooth road so that was nice!!
Timings
Start Lyke Wake Marker 0213 (0 miles)
Lordstones 0515 (5.7miles)
Claybank 0718 (9.3 miles)
Bloworth Crossing 0929 (12.7 miles)
The Lion Inn Blakey 1153 (18.2 miles)
Hamer (I think!) 1619 (26 miles)
Wheedale Road 1923 (30.6 miles)
Ellerbeck Railway Crossing 2137 (33.8 miles)
A171 Road Crossing 0120 (40.1 miles)
Finsh Lyke Wake Marker 0206 (41.4)
So 2 nights without sleep, blisters aches and pains!! But smiling!!
I am already a member as I complete in under 24 hours in 2021 but I just wanted to report this solo crossing. It certainly wasn’t quick buy I did it!
Kind regards
Catherine (Cathy) Staniforth
More Unfinished Business
On the back of a few annual 20-mile walks around the Peak District, we three 50-ish brothers decided to up the ante and take on the Lake Wake Walk. Two of us had attempted the walk in 1993 as teenagers but had to abort after eight hours, having walked through the night in thrashing rain until we got lost in a quagmire somewhere along the way. It felt like we had unfinished business, so we roped the third brother in, hoped it wouldn’t rain and decided to start at a more appropriate time of day.
Thursday July 4, 2024, 3:30am, Cod Beck Reservoir, Osmotherley
It was dark but happily dry, with the forecast for no rain for the rest of the day, which put a spring in our collective step. The first stretch was through gentle woods and fields until we reached the steep climb up onto the moors. We’d hoped to rattle off some 16-minute miles early on to compensate for the second half slow down, but the hills had other ideas.
As we wheezed our way up that first big climb, we wondered how and why we’d attempted to take that section on in the dark back in 1993. It was easier this time around and the sun was rising beautifully as we reached the tops. After a long series of downs and ups, we were happy to see the flat of the old train track and got our heads down, attempting to make up for lost time.
We reached the Lion Inn about an hour behind schedule and with several blisters, but we felt fresh enough. A revolting bag of something boiled and sludgy did more damage than good and we got back on our way.
Everything we’d read suggested the second half would be much harder, particularly over the boggy section, so we trudged away from the pub and prepared for a grind. But it never really came. The weather must have been kind in the run-up as the bog was mainly dry and the track easy to follow. Until it suddenly wasn’t, and we found ourselves walking through a forest of Christmas trees, somewhere on the edge of a massive and oddly terrifying forest – what we assumed was Wheeldale Plantation. This was almost impossible to walk through, but it turned out it was much easier than trying to cross the forest itself, which was absolutely impossible and, in retrospect, a very foolish idea. So, after battling through thick trees for an hour and adding 0.13 of a mile to our count, we retraced our steps, rediscovered the correct path and got our heads down again.
We could obviously see Fylingdales by this point, but as everyone notes on these reports, it never seems to get any closer. Morale was flagging as we reached the stepping stones, with one of the party now struggling badly with self-diagnosed ‘downhill knee’. When we finally got to the RAF base, we felt buoyant that it was only another six or seven miles to the finish. But either we’d miscalculated or Lyke Wake Walk miles aren’t the same as regular miles. We could see the sea from miles out but as with Fylingdales, that also never seemed to get any closer.
The final section, approaching Jugger Howe Beck, was actually very pretty, but by now the light was starting to fade and we were desperate to finish in daylight, so we trudged on until we finally ran out of track. Obligatory shots beside the finishing stone, we finished in just over 16 hours and got a taxi back to Osmotherley in silence and pain.
The next day we all vowed never to do it again. Once was enough.
Now, a few weeks later, with the blisters gone and the knee more or less back to normal, we’re planning another go. And this time we’ll know to avoid the forest.
Smethers, Budget and Nails.
A Birthday Bimble: Hannah Mayne Crossing Report for Brainstrust
In the year of my 40th birthday, I decided to take on a challenge that would make even the hardiest of souls reconsider their life choices: crossing the North Yorkshire Moors. Following in the legendary footsteps of my dad, who strode these same paths 35 years ago in a mere 20 hours, I set out to prove that the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. I imagine he’d be proud, though perhaps slightly put out that I dared to challenge his record. He lost all his toenails afterwards! I can report no toenail loss and no blisters. #smugPablo and I booked a 2-night stay at the Cleveland Tontine boutique hotel and received exceptional care from Marie and her team. We were warmly welcomed and shown a beautiful superior bedroom. Thanks to my careful planning, the room featured a stunning freestanding bath with Temple Spa products, perfect for unwinding before and after my walk. When I informed Marie about our early arrival the next night, she kindly offered us access to the bar on an honesty-based system, which reminded me that there are still wonderful and trusting people in this world. If you’re reading this and seeking accommodation near the endpoint of the E – W reverse crossing, I wholeheartedly recommend the Cleveland Tontine.
At some ungodly hour, deep in what can only be described as the hour of the dead, our alarm rudely woke us at 3:30 AM. I’m convinced there’s nothing to do at this time except sleep or be dead. But no, for some inexplicable reason, this was the start time for my 40-mile walk. Fondly known as the Lyke Wake or Walk of the Dead. The coffin walk, okay? After a couple of Nespressos, our journey began at 4:45 AM with a drive over to Ravenscar, where the promise of coastal views and the ominous expanse of the moors lay ahead. The plan: walk 40 miles from east – west, ending in Osmotherley. Simple, right? Well, not quite.
Accompanying me on this foolhardy adventure were 12 other determined souls, beautifully guided by the dynamic duo, Kathy and Den Johnson. Kathy’s energy and enthusiasm were matched by her grit and sense of direction, while Den’s understanding that he needed to be at the checkpoints or he would likely be in a coffin to be carried off across the moors, never to be seen again! Remember it was the walk of the dead after all!!
Then there was Pablo and Erin the dog (ETD), my mobile pit stop and full-on motivation manager. If there was ever a cheerleader in human form, Pablo is it. Armed with dry socks, snacks, water, and an endless supply of encouragement, he kept my spirits high and my legs moving. He just knew I would need a full set of dry clothes, a warm cup of tea, and a replenishment of snacks! All made in advance, of course.
The Moors had other ideas. They threw everything at us: mud that could swallow a boot whole, a bog that consumed people and walking poles, hills that laughed in the face of gravity, and winds that could strip the feathers off a grouse. But we trudged on, supported by the knowledge that every step brought us closer to our goal and the funds raised for brainstrust, a charity close to our family’s hearts.
The first few miles from Ravenscar to Ellabeck, crossing Jugger Howe Moor, felt like a rain-stained breeze, with stunning views and the soothing sounds of nature lulling us into a false sense of security. But as the hours dragged on, the challenge revealed its true nature. The relentless walking started to take its toll; my back, neck, and shoulders ached, and my legs were shredded by low-lying bracken and gorse. I had chosen to wear a skort (skirt/shorts) because I preferred bare legs to the ‘boil-in-a bag’ feeling of waterproof leggings, as Kathy cleverly described them. By the end of the bog section, I was soaked right down to my underwear! My Solomon GX4D boots, which had been fantastic until then, had let my feet and socks get completely saturated. Despite the excellent combination of Injinji Liner Crew Toesocks and Merino Danish Endurance socks, the saturated peat bog and relentless rain overpowered them.
We continued across Wheeldale Beck and its stepping stones, then under Wheeldale Plantation to meet the Blue Man-i-th-Moss, a boundary stone believed to have been placed in Roman times. Over 2 meters tall and surrounded by other boulders and stones, it has been repainted with a blue stick man. Rosedale Moor is incredibly boggy!! 3 people fell in and one walking pole will never see the light of day again.
We followed the road past the Fat Betty Cross (White Cross) and approached checkpoint 2 at Rosedale Head and Young Ralph’s Cross, I was thrilled to see my motivation manager and mobile pit stop. Every wet layer came off and went straight into a wet bag, and I changed into a full set of dry clothes and boots. Even my trusty brainstrust fundraising t-shirt was replaced with a fresh, dry one.
After this we followed the road onto Farndale Moor and then Round Hill, before following the Cleveland Way to reach checkpoint 3 at Claybank. From there, we continued past Lordstones, descended off Carlton Moor, and managed the last ascent followed by a very slippery descent through Clain Wood, Scarth Wood Moor, and finally reached the endpoint and Lyke Wake marker at Cod Beck Reservoir Car Park.
It took us 17 hours 30 mins, was just under 40 miles, ascent 5156 feet, descent 5449 and roughly 86076 steps. As day turned to night, the moors transformed into a mysterious and somewhat spooky landscape. The shadows played tricks on our minds, and classically the batteries in my head torch decided their time was up, they could go no further. This resulted in a very wet fumble to find and install 3 new AAA batteries. Thank goodness I had added batteries to the provision list the day before.
Despite the trials and tribulations, our camaraderie and determination saw us through. Each short pit stop, expertly managed by Pablo, felt like a mini celebration. There were different conversations to be had with each member of the team and endless banter kept the mood light, even when our legs felt like lead and my shoulders and upper back were screaming at me.
Finally, after an eternity, we finally reached the finish line in Osmotherley. Exhausted but elated, we collapsed in a heap of mud-splattered joy. We had done it. 40 miles of the North Yorkshire Moors conquered, and all for a fantastic cause. So here’s to my 40th year, a 40-mile trek, and the incredible team that made it possible. Dad, I hope I’ve done you proud, even if I did finish a bit quicker than you. And to everyone who supported us, thank you from the bottom of our tired feet. Now, where’s that pint?
Thank you to everyone who sent online and offline donations! I have raised £2,1977.76 for brainstrust!!!
When a Double isn’t really a Double: John Swanson
Day 1, July 2. Lion Inn – trig point on Beacon Hill – road by Loose Howe – Lion Inn: 13h45.
Day 2, July 3. Road by Loose Howe – eastern LWW stone – road by Loose Howe: 13h46.
Total elapsed time to cover entire route once each way: 39h01.
My first two Walks were with my father in the 1980s, unsupported, one each way, then I did a solo unsupported in my twenties in 1992. Having now just turned 60, thoughts turned to setting myself a challenge before too many more years pass and bring inevitable decline. I was reasonably confident I was up to a Lyke Wake Walk (living in Surrey, I’d done 40 miles and 5000 feet in a day by virtue of walking up and down the scarp slope of the North Downs more times than I could count). So could I consider a Lyke Wake Double? The logistics weren’t promising for a straightforward “one end to the other and back” – my wife offered to help support but I wasn’t going to ask her to drive silly distances at silly times of the day. Hence the idea of staying at the Lion Inn, and walking to Osmotherly and back one day, and Ravenscar and back the next – a Double in terms of the ground covered, just not in the right order.
So, day 1, I slipped out of the Lion fire exit at 5am. A couple of squalls blew through on the railway section, but it was mostly just overcast. I’d planned to build in what variety I could, so, inspired by a crossing report from Graeme Noble, from Urra Moor I dropped down to Seave Green, over the south end of Cold Moor, then up along the top of Barker’s Crags. I don’t know if there is an actual path down from them but I just ploughed through chest-high sopping wet bracken and felt like I’d walked through a car wash. Then Green Lane and through Clain Wood to Scarth Nick where my wife met me for the first topping up of water and flapjacks. Up to the trig point (new for me – all my previous walks had started at the stone), then the Classic route back, with from about Carlton Bank up to Clay Bank now in sunshine with blue skies. A sausage roll from the disappointingly non-vegetarian takeaway choice at the Lordstones café – my wife had gone to visit Robert Thomson at Kilburn and Mount Grace Priory – then a second top-up from her at Clay Bank and back along the railway, over Flat Howe, and round the head of Rosedale on the road and back on the lower railway track (through a late return of pouring rain), so as to even up the distances on the two days.
For day 2, I’d negotiated with my wife that 6am was not too unreasonable, so she drove me back round to where those pesky white boundary stones leave the road by Loose Howe. On my previous crossing, before the days of GPS, and doing that section in darkness, I’d strayed away from the stones there. This time, in continuous rain restricting visibility, I once again (and more than once) failed to pick out the next stone and strayed, but thanks to GPS, getting back was easier. The path across Wheeldale Moor seemed better trodden than I remembered, albeit with what looked distressingly like deep motorbike ruts. Thirty years ago I’d strayed off the path here too, and had kipped until dawn, consequently finishing in 23½ hours. The rain finally eased around Simon Howe, and there was almost some blue sky at Fylingdales. My wife met me at Eller Beck, and then at the Beacon Howes radio mast with a toastie from the National Trust café.
Turning back, I was now well into uncharted territory for me in terms of distance. Muscles seemed to be doing all right; little toenails would no doubt fall off later but would be manageable for the day; but the right knee had started day 2 tight and was getting tighter. Perversely, the climbs out of Jugger Howe Beck and Wheeldale Beck were a breeze as you don’t need to straighten the knee so much up steep hills; it was the level-ish slogging on uneven tracks from Wheeldale onwards that took their toll. On the last stretch from Hamer, I once again, despite best intentions, lost the straight route along the stones, it had started raining again, and tiredness was telling because I went knee-deep in bogs several times, which I’d been alert enough to avoid on the way out. Cresting Loose Howe, the moment the waiting car came in sight my brain stopped suppressing the complaints it had been getting from my knee and my finish was definitely more of a hobble than a walk. But 77 miles over two days, by a long way a new mark for me.
A supported walk, in daylight, with the benefit of GPS, is a very different animal from a solo unsupported walk spanning the night, with map and compass; more of a purely physical challenge, less of an engagement with the spirit of the Moors and, I would say, of the Walk. I am very pleased I set myself, and met, a challenge that I can remember in my old age. But it doesn’t really match the quasi-spiritual satisfaction of starting at one end of the Moors and emerging at the other entirely on your own resources.
John Swanson
Unfinished Business: Andrew & Alexander Roach
Sunday/Monday 7/8 July 2024
Start – Osmotherley, Cod Beck car park
Start time – 03.55
Finish – 02.19 Ravescar radio mast
Age – Old man (63) and young man, 17 later this month
Still smarting from having to abort last year’s attempt at Wheeldale, Andrew and Alexander, related and determined, set off from the hallowed car park on Sunday morning. A number of things went in our favour this year, there is more daylight in July than August and we had learnt a lot from last year’s blunders.
Apart from that, much was depressingly unchanged. The western climbs are as steep as ever, so that once again we couldn’t face Wain Stones and walked through Broughton Plantation instead. Glaisdale was still untracked, but we found a few more boundary stones, and taking no chances, left offerings to ward off the spirits. They seemed appeased as we saw storms rumbling around us, but crucially, not on us. On Wheeldale Moor, they finally lost patience and gave us a brisk 40 minute shower. Huddled beneath Blue Man i’the Moss in the rain trying to figure out what to do next was a low point. It was dusk (c10pm) before we reached Eller Beck and as we toured Fylingdale, the mist rolled in obliterating landmarks and creating monsters of many shapes. We were later told the stars were lovely. Finally, we got our act together, slithered down the hillside towards Jugger Howe Beck in the dark and made it to Beacon Howe.
God bless Helena, wife and mother to the above and provider of risotto and tea en route as well as driving us away from the radio mast in a warm car. “Have you two ever thought of walking for pleasure?”. It’s a good question.
PS I think Lilla Cross was then, what it is now, a guide and consolation to travellers. A distant comparison is the account of Kosmas the Priest in newly converted Bulgaria in the 10th century: ‘who has not rejoiced to see crosses set up in high places…?’
Andrew & Alexander Roach
Clydebank