West-East crossing report
Friday 28 th – Saturday 29 th June 2024
Walkers: Cubby, George, Chris
Support: Mary, Rachel, Jon
Start time: 9.15pm
Finish time: 11:05am
Walking time: 12hrs 39mins
Total elapsed time: 13hrs 50mins
A multi-generational walking and support team (grandmother, mum, dad, lads, uncle)
rendezvoused at the Queen Catherine in Osmotherley at 8pm on Friday 28 th June and drove up to Cod Beck for a 9.15pm start.
I had done a West-East crossing three weeks previously in extremely wet conditions. The path at the top of the plantation on the way to Clay Bank was a skid pan all the way and the boggy section was at its boggiest. But the ground had dried up beautifully in the meantime and the whole journey was very agreeable under foot.
This was George’s first attempt. Cubby and I bailed out on Rosedale Moor in August 2023 when we walked into the last lashings of Storm Antoni. I’ve completed the walk before but for Cubby it was unfinished business.
The air was cool and dry when we set off and the woods were temperate. It was typically breezy on the tops as we strode along the broad flags of the Cleveland Way but warm enough for me to take off a fleecy layer, which I didn’t need to put on again.
We reached the Lord Stones checkpoint in 1hr 45mins from the stone and broke for 15 minutes before heading off to Clay Bank via the low path after the campsite and the plantation track (or what’s left of the plantation).
We got to Clay Bank 1hr 10mins later and stopped for another 15 minutes before the big climb up from the road onto Urra Moor and Round Hill and full steam ahead for Bloworth Crossing.
We made good time on the old railway line and arrived at Ralph Crosses at 3.33am, 2hrs and 53mins after leaving Clay Bank. I’m not confident about the path up to Old Margery even in daylight so there was no question but that we went via the Lion. It adds time and distance but it’s hard to go wrong night or day.
Daylight was starting to spread and the sky was thick with huge striations of red and orange. It’s a magical time of day to be on high ground with commanding views. Visibility and terrain were excellent on Rosedale Moor, as good as I’ve experienced.
A quick pit stop at Hamer and then off across to Wheeldale Moor, to my mind the most mixed section of the walk. I always get encouraged by reaching the Blue Man-i’-th’-Moss and I love the descent to the Christmas tree plantation on the edge of the big wood but the path is miserable in parts, real ankle-breaking potential, and the stretch up to the road after the wood always drags.
We were in good form and heartened by the first sight of Fylingdales. The bosky descent into Wheeldale Beck is always good for the spirit and senses. The water was low in the stream and the stepping stones high and clear.
We hauled up the slope to Simon Howe and then down to Eller Beck which we reached at 8.25am. We didn’t hang around.
It was splashy going up to Lilla Cross and the air was thick with mizzle. What a lovely moment it is when you reach the cross – the first view of the sea and journey’s end.
We rattled along to Jugger Howe. I remember my first encounter with that blasted declivity the first time I did the walk back in 2014. Who thought it was a good idea putting it in the way of the path, and at this stage of the walk too? I felt the climb out more than usual. But we were soon on the old military road. We dropped our bags in the support car and hurried across the Whitby-Scarborough road for the last leg.
We reached the mast at 11.05am, 13hrs and 50mins from the start with 12hrs 39mins actual walking time. A fantastic effort from the young lads and the support team. Grandmother Mary, 86 years old and showing no signs of fatigue after spending a long night on support duty, read out a stirring celebratory ballad she had written for the occasion and then we all went to Scarborough to restore vital lost nutrients and reflect at leisure on what had been a very satisfactory enterprise. Thanks to everyone but most of all to the weather which could not have been better.
Chris Rea