Accommodation: Osmotherley YH and Ravenscar Hall Hotel
Date of Crossing: Wednesday 23rd July 2025.
Starting time 05:04 at the LWW start/finish stone at Cod Beck Reservoir.
Finishing time 22:21 at the LWW start/finish stone near the Ravenscar mast.
Crossing time – 17 hours 17 mins
Distance walked – 41.25 miles (66.38km)
Dirger: Steve Callender
It is with deepest regret that I report a successful solo, unsupported, West to East crossing on Wednesday 23rd July which was a day of two halves and a sultry lesson to someone who thought he could navigate in low cloud and rain without bothering with a compass!
Osmotherley Youth Hostel was remarkably quiet for July and I had a shared dorm to myself which was a welcome surprise and meant I didn’t disturb anyone when I was up at 04:00 to get ready and head off the the standing stone at the head of Cod Beck Reservoir. A lovely dawn morning and a pleasant temperature for walking as I said farewell to the starting stone at 05:04, which by sheer co-incidence was precisely sunrise.
A great mornings walk awaited following the Cleveland Way, with the only disappointment being the morning mist across the plain towards Middlesborough which limited the view. I was making good time, although the number and steepness of the descents and ascents between Heathwaite and Wain Stones was a surprise and something I hadn’t anticipated.
As I walked the easier section towards the Bloworth Crossing and the Lion Inn, the sun started to disappear behind cloud and by the time I arrived at the Lion Inn, the waterproofs were on. “It’s not too bad” I thought as I made a brief stop at the Inn for a warm drink and to fill up my water bottles (they are very accommodating). Leaving the Lion Inn the weather was still drizzly but not unpleasant and I walked towards what I knew to be the ‘real’ challenge of the LWW.
By the time I arrived at Loose Howe the rain had increased in intensity and the cloud was down so visibility was only 50 metres or less. At first there was a faint path to follow, then a track through long grass with occasional white sticks. Then I was in the heather and bog and featureless moor heading in a straight line to Shunner Howe – or so I thought. In the cloud and the rain I would see a white stick and walk toward it, then look for the next stick and walk toward that. ’These are really helpful” I thought. Twenty or so minutes later, a horrible realisation dawned. The wind and rain that had been hitting my right side was now hitting my left. Out with the compass and yes, I’m heading back towards the Lion Inn! Turned round, took a bearing and set off again, this time in the right direction and following the compass.
Time passed, the rain eased, the cloud lifted somewhat and everything became clear again. Once i’d crossed Wheeldale Beck it just became a case of mind over matter. The walking generally isn’t difficult although Flyingdales never seems to get any closer which makes it feel like the end will never arrive. And Jugger Howe Beck is a nasty surprise – in the rain and mud and bracken I ended up on my backside – very unhappy! Sunset came at 21:15 but by then the route was clear and a head torch was barely needed until the last 30 minutes. The standing stone near the mast was visible in the gloom so I got the photo I needed before heading on to the Ravenscar Hall Hotel. The night porter was very understanding as he checked in a somewhat bedraggled, wet, tired hiker at 22:40. And at least the bar was still open!
I had recorded my walk on the MapMyRun app and looking at the route I’d walked it was amusing to see I’d walked two very neat circles near Cock Heads which had added about a mile extra to the walk. At least next time I’ll know…